Thinking about adding second air conditioner rv components to your setup is usually the first thing on your mind when the thermometer hits 90 degrees and your main unit is clearly losing the battle. It's a common struggle for anyone with a rig over 25 feet; that single 13,500 BTU unit might have worked great in the showroom, but it doesn't do much when you're parked in a sunny lot in the middle of July. If you're tired of sweating through your shirt while trying to eat lunch, it might be time to look into an upgrade.
Most modern RVs are built with thin walls and pretty basic insulation. They're basically giant metal or fiberglass boxes that soak up the sun's heat. One AC unit often has to work overtime just to keep the main living area bearable, leaving the bedroom or the back bunkhouse feeling like a sauna. Adding a second unit isn't just about luxury; for a lot of us, it's the only way to actually enjoy camping during the summer months.
Checking Your Power Capacity First
Before you go out and buy a shiny new unit, you've got to check your electrical panel. This is the part that trips most people up. Most RVs either come with a 30-amp or a 50-amp service. If you have a 50-amp rig, you're in luck. Those systems are designed to handle the massive draw of two air conditioners running at the same time without breaking a sweat.
If you have a 30-amp rig, things get a little more complicated. A standard 30-amp service provides about 3,600 watts of power. A typical RV air conditioner can pull 1,500 to 2,000 watts just to stay running, and even more when the compressor kicks on. Do the math, and you'll see that trying to run two of them at once on a 30-amp breaker is a recipe for a blown fuse.
But don't give up hope if you're on a 30-amp system. Many people manage adding second air conditioner rv units by installing a completely separate power inlet. This means you'd have your main power cord for the RV and a second, dedicated heavy-duty extension cord just for the new AC unit that plugs directly into the 20-amp outlet at the park's power pedestal. It's a bit of a workaround, but it works perfectly.
Finding the Right Spot on the Roof
The most common place to put a second unit is in the bedroom, specifically where the existing roof vent is located. Most RV manufacturers use a standard 14x14 inch opening for their roof vents, which just happens to be the exact same size needed for almost every RV air conditioner on the market.
If you're lucky, your RV might even be "pre-wired" for a second AC. You can usually tell by looking at the ceiling assembly of your bedroom vent or checking your breaker panel for an empty slot labeled "AC 2." If it's pre-wired, the hard part—running thick Romex wire through the ceiling and down to the panel—is already done for you. If it's not, you're going to have to get creative with how you route the power, which is where things can get a bit messy for a DIYer.
What if There's No Vent?
If you don't have a vent where you want the AC, you'll have to cut a new hole in the roof. Honestly, this is the part that scares most people, and for good reason. You have to be 100% sure you aren't cutting through a structural roof truss or an existing bundle of wires. If you aren't comfortable taking a saw to your roof, this is definitely the point where you should call in a professional.
Choosing the Right Unit for the Job
When you start shopping, you'll notice a few different options. Most people go for a 13,500 BTU unit for their second AC. Since it's usually cooling a smaller space like a bedroom, you don't necessarily need the massive 15,000 BTU monsters.
You also need to decide between a ducted or non-ducted unit. If your RV has a network of vents in the ceiling, you might want a unit that can tie into that system. However, "direct blow" or non-ducted units are much easier to install because the cold air just drops straight out of the bottom of the unit into the room. For a bedroom, a non-ducted unit is usually plenty.
Another thing to consider is the profile of the unit. Some ACs are tall and boxy, while others are "low profile." If you're already worried about clearing low bridges or gas station overhangs, spending a little extra on a low-profile unit can save you a lot of stress down the road.
The Magic of Soft Starters
If you're worried about your electrical system handling the load, you should definitely look into "Soft Starts." These are little devices you install inside the AC unit that manage the power surge when the compressor starts up. Normally, an AC grabs a huge "gulp" of electricity to get going, which is what causes the lights to flicker or the breaker to pop. A soft starter smooths that out, making it possible to run a second AC on a smaller generator or a limited power supply. It's one of the best investments you can make when adding second air conditioner rv equipment to your rig.
Is This a DIY Project or a Pro Job?
I'll be real with you: the hardest part of this job isn't the wiring or the sealing—it's getting the 100-pound unit onto the roof. Unless you have a forklift or a very sturdy scaffolding setup, you're going to need a couple of strong friends and a very tall ladder.
The actual installation involves sitting the unit over the hole, lining up the gasket, and bolting it down from the inside. The gasket is the only thing keeping the rain out of your RV, so you have to make sure it's compressed evenly. If you over-tighten it, you crush the gasket; if you under-tighten it, it leaks. Most units have little yellow tabs or markers to show you exactly how much to tighten the bolts.
If you're comfortable with basic 110V electrical work and don't mind heights, you can probably handle this in an afternoon. But if the idea of wiring a circuit or climbing a ladder with a heavy box makes you nervous, just pay a tech. It usually takes a pro about two to three hours, and the peace of mind knowing your roof won't leak is worth the labor cost.
Final Thoughts on Staying Cool
At the end of the day, adding second air conditioner rv units is one of those upgrades you'll never regret. There's nothing worse than finishing a long day of hiking or driving and realized your "home on wheels" is 85 degrees inside.
Yes, it's an investment. Between the unit itself, the ceiling template, and potentially a soft start or extra wiring, you're looking at anywhere from $800 to $1,500. But the first time you're able to take a nap in a crisp, 70-degree bedroom while the sun is scorching the pavement outside, you'll realize it was worth every penny. Just take your time, check your power specs, and soon enough, you'll be the coolest rig in the campground.